Napa Valley runs on two parallel roads, and knowing which one you are on is the difference between a commute and a drive. Highway 29 is the main street of the valley, running through every town from Napa to Calistoga. The Silverado Trail is its quieter eastern sibling, tracing the base of the hills through vineyard country. Learn both.
Highway 29: the artery
Twenty-nine is where everything is: the towns, the famous winery gates, the restaurants, the traffic. It is the road for errands, for getting somewhere, for the Saturday run of tastings. It is also, at midday on a weekend, slow. Use it in the morning, use it on weekdays, and do not fight it at 2pm on a Saturday in October.
The Silverado Trail: the pleasure
The Trail runs the valley’s length a mile or two east of 29, past estate gates and vineyard rows with almost no towns to slow it down. It is the prettier drive by a wide margin, especially in the morning when the light comes over the eastern hills. This is the road for the unhurried: the drive up to a tasting with no hurry, the slow return at golden hour.
The rule
- Going somewhere specific, in a hurry, or on a weekend midday: Highway 29, and accept it.
- Going nowhere in particular, or anywhere beautiful: the Silverado Trail.
- One full traverse of each, in daylight, is mandatory on a first trip. The Trail north in the morning; 29 south at dusk.
- Cyclists own the Trail’s shoulders on weekend mornings. Give them room; you are in their church.
Once you know the roads, plan the days: three perfect days in Napa Valley, and getting there and around.